Category Archives: Day to day on Symi

Sterna

Continuing the water watch theme for the week, let’s talk sterna. I don’t mean the plural for sternum as in breastbone, but the water chambers found beneath Symi houses. Before pumps and pipes, water would be drawn from this well by hand, having been collected from the roof during the winter and any other time it rains. What you had by the end of May was what had to last you until October, or until the next heavy fall of rain. It was important to keep these chambers clean and dry, and the well opening was often in the courtyard, set in an alcove in the wall and painted white for cleanliness. Now, we have pumps that are either submerged into the sometimes-massive chambers and other times, placed above ground with the pipe down near the bottom of the sterna – but not too close to the sediment that gathers there.

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These sterna can be large. The one beneath our house is the size of my study, a good 12 feet by twelve and probably just as deep. The only problem with it is, it’s broken, and has been for some years. It was invaded by the roots of a fig tree some years ago now, and to repair it would have meant knocking down a wall, taking out the pump, draining what was below the root line, killing the fig tree (which we and the neighbours did with glee), and then relining the whole thing before refilling it. Expensive, disruptive and complicated. Instead, our landlord gave as a 500-litre water tank to sit on our bathroom roof.

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That’s all well and good, and worked fine once we put the pump in it because he’d overlooked that minor fact, but it means we can be limited to how much water we can use. As the mains supply feeds the tank three mornings per week, it’s not usually a problem, but at Easter and other long holiday weekends, we can run dry. If we can’t fill up between Wednesday of one week and Wednesday of the following, for example. We can’t collect rainwater because the opening to the tank is too narrow. So, we’re forever on water watch, and when there’s a bank holiday, I pop onto the bathroom roof to open the tank and peer in, then give my verdict as to whether we can shower or flush that day.

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People often ask if the water on Symi is safe to drink, and they get various replies depending on who they ask. Some say yes, but others say, since the desalination plant was installed, no. I say it depends on what’s in your sterna. Our tank is quite clean (being plastic there’s nothing growing at the bottom of it), and yet now and then, the water runs a strange orange colour from the taps, as if it’s run through a pocket of rust, which it might have done, but surely it would always run that colour? Odd. Anyway… We use the water for washing up, cleaning teeth and so on, and also use it for ice as I am sure, do most businesses.

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The other water we have a lot of is the sea, and that’s why you have a few images from various angles showing my view of the sea, taken from my neighbourhood. (Except the last one.)

Water Bottle Tops Take Over the World

Continuing the water theme, let’s talk bottles. I shudder to think how many plastic water bottles are used and thrown away on the island every day. I know in our household we get through about three a day between us, at least, so I hate to think what the bars and tavernas are using. Good for the suppliers, but as these things are not recycled and end up in the landfill tip… But what happens to the bottles is not today’s topic.

20230818_161950Opening the darn things is. Over the last couple of months, there’s been a takeover by bottles with a new design. Someone’s come up with this great idea of designing the tops so they don’t stray from the rest of the bottle, thus, keeping them from being lost or discarded in the sea, or on land, come to that. All well and good, maybe. As is making the bottles from thinner plastic, which also seems to be happening in some cases. However, they’ve also made the things more of a challenge to open. Come to that, they’re not that easy to close either. After lunch on Monday, as we left the Trawler, I realised my backpack was wet underneath. I sniffed it to make sure it wasn’t cat pee, and couldn’t work out how it got so wet. (Had it been a cat, it would have been one with an excessive bladder.) It wasn’t until I reached the taxi rank that I remembered I had a bottle of water in there, and although I thought I’d secured the lid, they are now designed to fox even the most highly qualified physicist, and it had leaked.

You see, now, there are two dangers inherent in the seemingly innocent bottle of bottled water you can buy anywhere on the island. First, opening it. The caps are now attached to the collar by a very strong isthmus of plastic, so, once opened, they don’t drop off. This has made them (some brands at least) more difficult to open, so you have to grip more tightly, and as the bottle-body plastic is flimsier, as soon as you’ve got your cap released, you’re met with a waterspout to rival Geneva. Endless amusement when in a café and the waiter doesn’t open the things for the customer.

Then, presumably refreshed, dried off and with the flood removed from the tabletop, you come to put the lids back on. This is more of a challenge because, thanks to the new design, the top doesn’t always fit. It’s something to do with the way it joined to the bottle. You fold the lid over to find it’s slipped down the neck, so you have to wiggle-waggle it back up to get it into the right place. It’s only about two millimetres, but it’s not as easy as it sounds. There’s a ‘thing’ that keeps the top folded back, and if this slips below one of the ridges on the screw thread, you have to pull the cap out, lift it, place it back in, fold it over, and then you’re free to tighten it. Or not, because often it’s hard to see if you’ve seceded and you end up with a wet bottom. Or your backpack does.

I should draw a diagram, but I won’t, and I could advise that when you get one of these good/bad new bottles, you can always use a little force and rip the blooming top from the bottle and use it like a normal one like we used to have in the good old days of two months ago.

There, only I could fill a whole page talking about plastic bottle tops.

A water reliated photo.
A water-related photo.

By the way, if you want to recycle your plastic water bottles by refilling them, thus, using fewer, there’s only one way I can think of to do it. As far as I know, there are no state or business-run ‘refuelling’ stations on the island (as there are now in some places in the world), but there is a natural one. Take a walk up to the monastery on the side of the hill overlooking the Pedi valley, known locally as ‘To Vrisis’, and you can fill your bottles from the natural spring there.

Creatures from the Blue Lagoon

The cinema astute among you will notice a film crossover reference in the title, but today’s post has nothing to do with young people marooned on a desert island and a strange creature from a 1950s B movie. It has to do with water, which seems to be the trend for this week’s posts. I was going to write about water bottles, but that will have to wait until tomorrow, as there is something far more exciting to talk about, and that’s yesterday when we took our godson for a dive. At least, Neil and the staff at Blue Lagoon Divers took him for a dive. His mother and I stayed on dry land, and it was the closest I had been to the sea so far this year, and my first time on a beach since sometime last summer.

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But this isn’t about me. It’s about divers and the dive centre you can find in the town square in Yialos. The business is run by fully qualified and highly experienced divers headed by Vasilis (Will) Zouroudi, whose parents will be known to many regular Symi visitors. They offer all kinds of dives, from first-time ‘tasters’ to deep dives for experienced and PADI certified members. Yesterday, while one staff diver was taking H on his dive, another was out acting as a guide for qualified divers visiting the underwater Nimos ‘cave’, one of the local shipwrecks and other underwater places, and another team member was taking a client through her Open Water course.

My interest lay in watching H on what was his second dive (he’d been two years ago for his 14th birthday present, but now older, he was able to dive deeper). It was an early start for the poor chap. He only finished work at the restaurant at three that morning, before I hauled him from his bed at eight, shoved some breakfast into him, and the three of us walked down to the dive centre to be kitted out.

Fully instructed, even underwater. (Underwater photos by Neil.)
Fully instructed, even underwater. (Underwater photos by Neil.)

That done, it was a van ride around to Giala, the bay on the way to Nimborio, where I could sit at the kantina with a frappe as Neil and H transformed into characters from a James Bond film. That was after the full safety briefing from the instructor which I was party to, and very well explained it all was too. H had already done the online course and been through the pre-dive study materials. Safety is the watchword, though I have learnt several other diving terms over the past couple of years, and a few of the rules. (Never hold your breath, don’t touch anything under the water, etc.) That done and thoroughly understood, off they went to practise skills in the shallows before disappearing below water for half an hour.

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As you can see from today’s photos, both were overjoyed with the experience and returned from their adventure exhilarated and ready to do more of the same. You can do it too if you like. You can contact the dive centre through their website (linked in this post), and if you want to do, say, the Open Water course, take on the study materials first, before you come to Symi, because it’s initially all done online. That would prepare you for when you’re here, booked in and ready to go. The centre has the equipment, so you don’t need to bring your own. (They can also supply a photographer, subject to availability.)

It’s an excellent addition to the activities already available on Symi, though Blue Lagoon doesn’t stop there. They also volunteer at other times of the year and help retrieve underwater rubbish from the sea around Symi’s coast.

The smiels say it all.
The smiels say it all.

If you are interested, you can make all enquiries through the website, or by calling into the centre, which is open from early in the morning until noon (if they’re not all out diving, but it’s always open around 8.30 to 9.00) and again at five in the evening onwards.

Blue Lagoon Divers

Contact Page

Cloud, Light and a Whiff

Good morning, I hope you had a good weekend. I had a productive one, thank you for asking, though it started as a cloudy one. It has been very humid of late, which is what I assume caused the cloud you can see in the photo, because it was gone a couple of hours later. It’s all very well when it’s 40 degrees and dry, but when it’s only 30-something and damp, it’s a ball game of a different colour. Nothing like a mixed metaphor to start the week. Still, after the Saturday morning blimp, everything settled down into a warm weekend, with fans on when needed, and plenty of staying in the shade.

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I was able to get a few odd jobs done. You can see one of them over on the right of this page. I put up the widget that lets you link directly to Neil’s 2024 Symi calendar. When you are ready to buy one or two, all you need do is click the image of the cover and you will head straight to the page at Lulu where you can place your order.

Another triumph of my weekend was to fix the light in the laundry. This is one of those jobs that has been waiting to be done for around two years, but which only took five minutes. Having turned off all possible fuses via the three main switches, and turned off the other one in the workhouse just in case, I took down the old light fitting, trimmed the wires, bunged on a new fitting, screwed in a bulb, and Bob’s your uncle, Fanny’s your maidypard, let there be light in the laundry again. So thrilled was I that I popped down to the Rainbow bar for a celebratory iced tea, and, on returning home, spent some time standing in the laundry flicking the light switch on and off and marvelling at my achievement.

A couple of random photos from Neil to brighten the page.
A couple of random photos from Neil to brighten the page.

While there, I thought it was high time I did something about the smell. Ever since we moved in here, there has been a lingering whiff of waste, to put it politely. Sometimes, it’s not so much lingering, but loitering, and at other times, it’s positively squatting. Clearly, there is an issue somewhere with the plumbing. I make sure the traps are watered, by which I mean, I regularly run water in the sinks which are otherwise little used, to ensure the U bends have water in them. That hadn’t helped. Then, about two years ago (only six years after first noticing the whiff), I took my courage in both hands and bought a new contraption of white pipes that join plughole to outflow pipe, and set about replacing the old one. As per usual with this house, there was an issue. The outflow pipe is meant to be slightly larger than the sink waste pipe so one fits in the other, and they are the same size, so you can’t join them. I found a workaround, fitted the new contraption and sealed it so there were no more holes where the whiff could escape. To be sure, I wrapped the joins in gaffer tape.

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Still, the stink persisted, being worse when the wind was in a certain direction and even worse in the summer. Some days it was fine, and those are the days you say, ‘That’s sorted itself out, good.’ Of course, it never does. So, on Saturday, I addressed the back of the washing machine. When I’d fitted that in a couple of years ago, I’d packed a plastic bag in the gap between the drain pipe and the machine’s water-out pipe, but I noticed this had come loose. So, I pulled out the washing machine and the plastic bag (plus a roach which was investigating there – a clue to how the padding may have failed), and restuffed a new seal inside one pipe and around the other. As of 3.30 this Monday morning, I can report, no whiff. I even popped in there last night just for a sniff and could only smell washing powder. Possibly, a success. Time will tell.

At the risk of sounding overly manly with all this DIY business, and at the even greater risk of boring you to tears with my achievements, I’ll let you get on. I was going to take a look at the new plastic water bottles and their impossible lids, but I will have to leave that for tomorrow. Oh, there are so many exciting things to chat about… but they will have to wait.

I Think

I was wandering aimlessly about the lanes the other morning and found myself passing by the place I stayed at when I first came to Symi in 1996. It’s still there, but, I think, no longer used. A lot of what follows comes with ‘I think’ attached because it was 27 years ago, and I can’t remember all the details but…

My first trip here was on my own, and it was a package for two weeks with a company called (I think) Sensations. The rep was (I think) called Helen. If this is wrong, I am sure someone will leap on me in the comments section on our Facebook page and give me all the details of when, who, what and how I made my trip.

All I remember of the journey over was arriving late at night into Rhodes and being taken to the International Hotel near the Casino, there to have use of a foyer for around four hours before being bussed to Mandraki and the boat to Symi. The boat was (I think) the Symi I or II, and we arrived in Pedi. I remember that because I thought, ‘This doesn’t look like the brochure’ which had shown Yialos. Still, I was pleased to see I had been awarded one of only four taxis on the island, which was one of my reasons for coming: No airport, only accessible by boat, only four taxis… This drove us up to Lavina Studios. Which is what I passed the other morning on my stroll.

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Having been awake all night, I crashed out for a couple of hours and woke in the late morning keen to explore, and feeling like I’d had an extra day. Helen (or whoever) had given me a map which looked like an electrical circuit diagram of a nuclear reactor, and armed with this, I set off into the village lanes intent on finding my way down to Yialos.

I did, and without getting lost, so I must be better at electronics than I thought. Anyway, from then on, I indulged in a week of boat trips and beaches, visiting Nanou several times, Nimborio, Nos and other places beginning with N. I also walked to Panormitis one day. The second week was calmer, and apart from a night of suffering an allergic reaction to Symi shrimps (think Elephant Man and dysentery), I spent a lot of time writing ideas for a book. I finished it some months later, used it to secure an agent, and had it accepted by a small publishing house. Then, the agent had a heart attack and moved to Spain, and the publishing house closed up before the book was ready. Anyway, it finally got published and is still lurking in the real world. (I think.)

And talking of books, the full story of that first trip, how we moved here, and other things, can be found in ‘Symi, Stuff & Nonsense’, one of my four books about moving to and living on Symi.