Grab a cup of Tea, it’s a Long One

Following on from yesterday’s post about the new EES checks, or lack of them, I was reminded of Rhodes airport. To lighten the strain of reading this tale, I have, as usual, added random photographs, because it has been clinically proven that the insertion of a visual holds a reader’s attention. These ‘clinical trials’ apparently can also be invented to prove the whitening effects of toothpaste, the absorbency of lady-wear (now available in more technically accurate colours), and cat food. In this case, I just need to make the page look more appealing, and this is easily done when your husband takes such photos.

And so, to Rhodes airport.

Via one of the harbours.

The first time I stepped off a plane there in 1996, the first thing that hit me was the late August heat and the accompanying smell of exhaust fumes and Hawaiian Tropic. The second thing, which was far more impressive, was the way we were allowed to walk from the plane to the cattle grid; none of that being bussed five yards on that occasion.

A couple of years later, Neil and I were back there, and for a reason too complicated to explain in detail, endured a self-inflicted twelve-hour wait. We’d not used the outward tickets and wanted to make sure the return ones were still valid. This was a simple case of finding a company representative and asking them to check. Except it wasn’t, as there was no assistance to be had from that company, not even for a bribe. Not knowing Rhodes then as we do now, we knew of nowhere to store our rucksacks, and we didn’t fancy carting them around all day waiting for take-off at midnight. In the end, we spent twelve hours watching wave after wave of pink and red holiday makers rolling in, queuing up, shouting at children and grandparents alike, and watched it all from the upstairs café. We took it in turns to pass the time by walking up and down the length of the building, reading, and, in my case, writing scenes for a revue, until the hour of our own wave of passengers was upon us. There then followed a two-hour delay during which we sat on the floor with Morcheeba and talked about music and Symi. What better way to pass the time?

A Pedi sunrise in April.

That was one self-inflicted delay. Another was out of my control, and it happened more recently when I was due to fly to the UK for a little family tour. First stop, London, to catch up with an old school friend I’d not seen for over 40 years. He was flying in a day after me, following a family holiday in Italy, and had only a couple of free days before flying back to New Zealand, where he’d settled. The planning was intricate, with, for me, a night in Brighton, a trip back to town, a night at a hotel in the West End, our lunch together, and then off to visit other places. It all began at nine-fifteen in the evening with a flight from Rhodes.

Except, it didn’t. We could all see the plane from our seats in the departure lounge, but was there any activity around it? Was there ’ell as like. Of course, this being EasyJet, the passenger selection did not disappoint. It wasn’t long before Mr Angry from somewhere dubious to the East of London was canvassing for a rebellion, Mr And Mrs Particular from the suburbs were fussing about insurance, and Mr Big-Business was on his phone to a great glass tower in the Docklands demanding repatriation by his firm. (Why did he need to fly with EasyJet?) The trouble was, there was no representative from EJ to be had, and I am sure the Angry family tried blackmail as well as bribery. It fell to a diminutive but forceful airport lady to tell us the flight was cancelled. It being gone midnight by now and still no activity outside, we’d already guessed this.

I can’t remember how I found out, by luck, I think, but if one went to a specific desk back out in departures, one could secure a replacement boarding pass for the flight, now due to leave at three the following afternoon. It was around 01.30 that I had to download an app to my phone, log in to an account, click this and that, and find my new boarding card magically in my hand. Virtually. The next problem was what to do for the next fourteen hours, and sitting around the airport again was not an option.

Also in Rhodes.

I should have gone to the Plaza and asked to kip on their sofa, or, as I was allegedly on holiday, book a room, but instead, I ended up at a hotel I shan’t name, but it’s in Mandraki and, for a reason I have never fathomed, popular with Symi visitors. A room at two in the morning? Yes, Sir. Here you are. Fifty euros.

I entered the set of a recently abandoned porn shoot. Both single beds were unmade and still warm, there was condensation drifting from the shower, where every towel was wet, and I had to check the wardrobe to ensure the recently copulating were not still doing so in there. (I’ve known stranger.) I had the impression that they would soon be back for scene two, and I knew I should have gone downstairs and remonstrated, but frankly, it was nearly three by this point, I’d come over on the ungodly-hour ferry nearly 24 hours previously, and all I wanted to do was sleep. Which I managed to do fitfully for two hours, with one eye on the chair blocking the door, while lying on a scabby spare blanket which, although it might have been bug-addled, was at least dry.

Just after five, I hauled myself around to the Plaza, and began making new arrangements to meet my mate, cancelling this pickup and that hotel while adding in another, and so on, until gleefully returning to the airport to once again go through security. It was while doing this that I realised the perfect way to lose weight was to stay awake in the manner of a Jesuit Priest writing poetry, endure an eighteen-hour delay, and fret a lot. Having removed any trace of metal from my person, including my belt, I stepped through the machine, put out my arms as instructed, and felt my trousers hit the floor.

Perfect.

And home to Symi.

Not so perfect was the plane taking off another two hours late and, having not been restocked, only having the dregs of the trolley to choose from. I snaffled the last remaining KitKat as my in-flight meal, and felt no shame. I mean, once you’ve dropped your trousers to a uniformed Greek security guard and not even turned a head, there is nowhere lower to go. Other than Easy Jet’s reimbursement scheme, where, after days of sticking receipts back together, finding proof, gathering ‘clinically-tested’ forensic evidence, and providing fingerprints, they still claimed I couldn’t claim, not even under the EU compensation scheme, because the delay was caused by God. (He/She, apparently, was and presumably still is, a squall over North Macedonia.)

I flew back from my trip with Jet2, who, at Stanstead, gave us continuous updates about, and apologies for, a ten-minute delay which came to nothing as we set off on time. And, with trousers.

Border checks, EES and ETIAS

(Not as boring as it sounds.)

The summer season hasn’t even started properly yet, and already the debates and confusion have begun. Not necessarily at airports, but at the kafeneion tables, where soon, the topic of the month will be sunbed prices. Before that, though, there has been great confusion, causing great distress to some of our more easily bewildered visitors and commentators.

‘I read that, yes, you do have to wait for two hours to get your fingerprints taken.’
Not right now, you don’t.
‘But you do! Maureen said she went through Stiffado Airport last week, and she had to give impressions of the soles of her feet in clay before they stamped her passport.’
‘Do you have to have your passport stamped?’
Yes.
‘Why?’
(Attempts to explain, fails, and says) ‘Because you’re leaving the UK and entering Europe,’ which is true/not true, it’s to do with the Shenanigan’s Agreement, but that’s one layer of potential confusion too many for the conversation.
No, you are wrong. I read all about it in the Express. Why do they want to take our fingerprints? It’s an Orwellian state. There’s a sinister conspiracy at work…’

Hold onto your kleftiko, love. Here, after this random photo, is the deal:

Whether Aunt Maureen got held up in a queue for hours, strip-searched and sculpted in marble makes no never mind. As of April 10th, Greece has exempted British passport holders from the EES system. In words that even the weariest of Tui Tourists should understand:
Carry on as normal.
Brits don’t currently have to do the biometric registration on entry. Forget all the fuss, and what the Daily Mail chiselled on tablets as gospel and how it wasn’t Brexit’s fault, and forget what Auntie Maureen tells you. This is one rare occasion when you can believe the British government.

If or when it will change is currently anyone’s guess, and why the reason for the confusion?

Well, partly because people don’t listen to truth anymore and make up their own disaster situations to cover the most minor of life’s changes, but also, because the system wasn’t ready. I’m guessing there, because, frankly, the subject is already too ‘done’ for words, but let’s think about it briefly:

Every non-registered visitor from non-Shenanigans countries who arrives has to go through a process that is to take 90 seconds at most. Obvs, it can take longer, because some bewildered folk only remember to look for the necessary when they are at the checkout and not in the queue, but in this case, everyone should have their fingertips to hand. However, even if it only took a minute per person, that’s potentially over 200 minutes per plane (over three hours). Imagine that in the height of summer? Well, there was no need to imagine it over the Easter break, which is where, I think, ‘they’ suddenly realised it was too cumbersome a process.

Good old Greece!

Anyway, stop beating your gums about it, because it’s currently off the agenda, and just show your passport. Of course, a European one will get you through the Euro queue no questions asked, and if you’ve got a Greek residency card, even with a UK passport, you can often slip through the Euro queue, especially if you go with Neil, who has an Irish passport. (Neil is available for travel Monday to Thursdays by advanced booking only. To avoid disappointment, use your own European passport holder.)

The bottom line: Expect the usual arrival/border control checks, you know, like last year. How long this takes is, as always, dependent on how many people have just arrived, and who in officialdom has had their morning coffee.

Yet another Airbnb accommodation opens on Symi.

As for the ETIAS, that’s another thing that’s been spreading confusion like a Trump ramble.

‘Are they two different things?’ Yes.
‘Why are they doing this?’ Because…
‘The government want all our information, well, I am not giving it to them! They will know where I am…’ Squark, flap, lay an egg.
Hate to bring you down, love, but if you’ve got a mobile phone, you’re already in ‘Their’ system. However, why you think ‘They’ are watching your every move and ignoring the other 8.3 billion people in the world is something to discuss at your next healing circle.

Okay, here’s the deal on this one:

The ETIAS requirement is anticipated to start in the last quarter of 2026.

What is it? It’s a travel authorisation such as already exists for loads of countries around the world. (We had to have one to enter Canada in 2020; it’s linked magically to your passport, so we didn’t have to do anything on arrival except smile and find the legal weed shops.)

If in doubt, look at ETIAS.com

So, no, right now, everything is as it was. Carry on up the Acropolis as much as you want, or as much as you can, seeing as how planes will soon have to be pedal-powered. Disclaimer: If any of the above is incorrect, tell someone who gives a kolokithaki.

It’s Lodger Season

It’s around this time of year that I start looking for dark shapes in the kitchen first thing in the morning, and I check my shoes before putting them on. I always associate the time between cold winter and hot summer (i.e. April/May) with spider time, likewise the cooling down time after the summer, as this is when they are most likely to come out of hiding and go searching for new stomping ground. We’ve been lucky in this house in that we’ve only had four or five break-ins by the little blighters over the years, but still, I remain vigilant. So, imagine my suspicion yesterday when I noticed a sudden movement across the room on the back of the sofa. Neil saw it too and went to take a photo.

But it wasn’t an eight-legged interloper, it was something far more cute and entertaining. No need to run in pointless panic from this little chap.

The contract for the house says we are not allowed to sublet, but it doesn’t say we can’t have a live-in house lizard, or gecko, or whatever its proper name is. We’ll have to keep an eye on him, though, because later, Neil found him trying to hide out in his boot, so, when on Symi, always check your shoes/boots before you put them on. You never know what might be sleeping in them. Of course, if you’re of the open sandal or flip-flop wearing variety, then you won’t need to, and if you wear crocks on holiday, then you deserve to have your toe bitten by a Symi spider with fashion sense.

Meanwhile, the sunrises are becoming more interesting, as you can see from Neil’s photos, and the temperature is starting to warm gradually. Oh, and yes, the dust-cloud man did get into work late yesterday, and added the dust to the weather map again later in the day, so that’s still hanging over us. I’ll leave you with a sunrise…

Three Bears

It was a case of the Three Bears out at sea yesterday. For most of the day, we had a large cruise ship moored out to sea and ferrying its privileged back and forth to the island. I meant to remember the name so I could look it up and give you more details, but of course, I forgot, but it was a big white lump you can see in the photo. Later in the day, I noticed there was a medium-sized one at the clock tower, and a tinny-in-comparison one out at sea. Varying degrees of affluence, I guess, though the largest one I suspect is a company rather than an individual. If it was only one very ostentatious person, then why ferry the boats back and forth all day? Maybe just to look important. No, the first of our larger cruise ships arriving for the season, and not as large as some that will, hopefully, later invade.

Talking of invading, I just checked the dust cloud to see if that was still hanging about, but the Poseidon weather map shows us as being dust-free again. Mind you, it also shows the Sahara region being dust-free, so I wonder if perhaps the person who does the dust hadn’t come into work when I looked, and may arrive later to colour in the rest of the map. Either way, it looks like we’re in for some cloud and a little rain on Friday evening, but after that, we are resetting to sunnier days. It was 16° in the courtyard at 05.30 this morning with no breeze, so if you’re soon heading this way, that’s what you can expect. Warm in the daytime, still cardigan or jacket weather in the shade and evenings, but not for much longer. We’ll soon be saying, ‘Hot, isn’t it?’

But not quite yet. We are still clinging on to spring here, with this kind of scene to enjoy of a daytime.

Fryers, Fireworks and Fings

Although it is Wednesday, it feels like the weekend has only just finished. I don’t know why. I had a perfectly normal working day yesterday, without parties, festivities, expositions or fireworks, and I got a whole chapter first drafted. This morning, I have one of those mornings with bits and pieces to do before I can settle down to write, while Neil is planning to call down to ACS to pick up a new air fryer because the last one stopped working. It chose to do it as we were cooking dinner for Sam, who bought it for us two Christmases ago, which was a bit embarrassing, but couldn’t be helped. We had a look at changing the filament and ordering another, but that was a dangerous new world to step into, not only with 101 tiny screws to extract and all that, but also to find the serial number, make, model, breed, year of birth, and name of the technician who put in the original one, plus their guild registration details, and/or to send the thing back. Do you ever keep your receipts and guarantees? Do you sign them and send them off, or register your new Lady Shave or beard trimmer online just in case it goes wrong within the warranty period? Hm. Maybe you do. Ah, but then, do you search for the box you kept because it ‘might be useful one day’, and can’t find it so use something else the thing doesn’t fit into, then package up the faulty appliance, carry it down 400 steps, pay to have it sent back, or fill out a free post form, wait another four weeks, before going to collect a replacement that’s not the same as the one you sent back?

I don’t.

Easter Sunday

Apparently, we had lots of fireworks and some naughty dynamite going off this year, but I slept through it all, being in bed at half nine at night. On Friday, I fell asleep to the sounds of bangers and processions outside the window, and slept through the big bangs of Saturday night too, though I was awake around three when I heard at least three major explosions somewhere nearby. I was told that these had been outlawed, but then I’ve often heard that, only his time, I was told that to be found setting off the homemade bangs has led to one young island resident being arrested on terrorism charges, which sounds a bit mean. This, of course, will not be 100% firsthand or maybe even correct, because news travels around here, and the incident in question happened maybe a year ago, and the news has been through many hands and dropped from many lips since…

Meanwhile, back on Sunday, we wandered down to a party around by Nos beach, passing the 25 slowly roasting lambs on spits, and the gathering crowds. Some families had already grabbed the waterfront tables, probably having put their towels down during the night, and the music had been playing since 07.30 for all to enjoy. The weather was spot on, and our party was a hoot. Being at one of the island’s most desirable holiday lets, we had a perfectly sunny afternoon view of the sea, and plenty of room to socialise among a small group of lovely people.

Monday brought another afternoon gathering, on a smaller scale and without the need for a two-mile walk, and that was the weekend. There will be more celebrations this coming weekend when friends return to the island for the summer and for the first of their holidays. Although the village is still quiet, and in a post-Easter lull, this, hopefully, will not last for long, and the season will soon be up and running.

Writing on a Greek island

Symi Dream
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