The sounds of morning

The sounds of morning
Standing on the balcony on a Thursday morning, looking down over Symi harbour, I paid attention to the sounds that you can hear from this side of the village. Why? Well, I’d been out for an early walk up the hill – from Syllogos Square, to Kampos, up through Leoni to Agia Triada and then down through the village and back to home. The first such early walk since last year due to cold and weather.

The sounds of morning
The village square about to wake up

The sun was still behind the hills as I left at around 6.40 but there were signs of life in the village. Nikitas had already opened his peripteron and Lefteris was already at work at the kafeneion, despite the fact that the sun was not yet up. The bakers had their wood oven open and there was the aniseed-tinted smell of baking in the air. A couple of soldiers in uniform passed me on their mopeds as they set off for work up at the barracks, and the rubbish collection teams were already out and about on the roads.

The sounds of morning
Early morning on the road

The usual sounds of the morning greet you at this time of day: the cockerels sounding off, chickens fussing about something vital to survival behind ruin walls, the early birds out looking for worms, and the distant sounds of a motorbike struggling up a hill, or the quiet rumble of one coming down with no engine yet switched on, a common trick around here to save fuel. The road was pretty deserted, only a few army guys and farmers passed in cars and trucks and, by the time I reached the top road to Periotisa, the sun was only just starting to drag itself up over the hilltop.

The sounds of morning
Fading storm clouds beyond Pedi

Later, on the balcony, I was treated to the sight of a flat calm sea and some activity down below. The sound of the navy ship as it started up and prepared to leave port, signalling its leaving with three solid blasts on its claxon. The coastguard launch starting up, churning the flat harbour water into ripples of lighter blue and white, and then speeding off into the bay and beyond where another navy boat could be seen far out; possibly one of the NATO patrols now in the Aegean. And for other sounds: a neighbour’s water pump whizzing into life, a tell-tale sign that someone was doing the washing, or in the shower. The sound of the school below and away to my right, with a bell ringing, soon followed by the sound of teenagers at play in the playground. A hawk of some sort wheeling about over it all, set against the distant white clouds that are the remains of a rainstorm from the night before, and the cats, somewhere nearby, in heated debate over territory rights or food.

The sounds of morning
The Castro in early morning light

And behind all that, a peaceful calm, the sun starting to warm the green hillside where weeds and herbs are now flourishing after only a little winter rain. The calm sea in shades of blue reflecting the sky, and the glare of the low sun on white-painted buildings across the harbour where only a few people were out and about, coming to and fro from work. All very calming and pleasant. My coffee break on the balcony came to its end and it was time to head back to the desk to try and write. The cat was in the courtyard finding the morning snooze spot, the washing was able to go outside in the sun, having spent a day and a night sheltering from the rain, and one hundred and one small jobs needed attending to around the house; tidying up, putting things away, airing the rooms with open windows and doors… and so back to work.

The sounds of morning
First sight of the sun over a hill

From boats to book reviews

From boats to book reviews
You will be pleased to hear that the wind did die down and the boats were able to come and go. In fact we had two on Wednesday, the Blue Star and the Dodekanisos. I noticed that the Symi Visitor Travel Blog has details about the now published timetables for the ferries; Blue Star up until the end of August and Dodekanisos Seaways for the summer. This is going to be of great use to everyone planning a holiday in Symi this year.

From boats to book reviews
Pedi valley view

By the way, if you are thinking of a holiday in Greece this year, don’t be put off booking now. We’ve been hearing of some islands expecting a massive drop in tourism this year, those who are at the frontline of the refugee situation. I’ve not heard that about Symi or Rhodes, however. Mind you, I am sure that most, if not all, of my blog readers would not be put off their plans by what they might see on television, or read in the papers. Those islands, more than some, need support.

From boats to book reviews
Same old same old

Anyway, back to Symi and your possible holiday. Here are a couple of books you might like to get hold of before you come. Actually one is a map and it’s good for walkers, being the most like an OS map that you might find. It’s Symi Terrain Maps, one of the Terrain Editions and is well worth ordering in advance so you can look at the terrain and plan your walks. (I love looking at maps. I could sit and read an atlas for hours; which reminds me, I must get an Atlas.)

From boats to book reviews
No change there then

Another idea for a pre-holiday book would be a guide book, and if you are planning time on Rhodes as well as Symi, then you might find The Rough Guide to the Greek Islands, by Nick Edwards, useful. There are loads of other guide books out there as well of course and you can pick up maps and guide books locally when you arrive. And now we do a quick segue into Amazon reviews via a lilac, plastic loofah found on the shore en route to St Nicks.

From boats to book reviews
From my ‘Things you find on paths’ series; a plastic loofah by the sea

These are vital if an author is to sell more books on Amazon. (Reviews, I mean, not plastic loofahs.) The more positive reviews a book gets, the more chance there is of Amazon promoting it. As I understand it, you don’t have to have bought the book from Amazon in order to put up a review (you may need to register), and it’s a quick and easy process and so helpful to the author. (That ‘so’ was meant to be read as ‘sooooooo.’) What’s also good about the set-up is that books that receive more than average bad reviews get reviewed (there’s a revue to be made out of this one day); someone at Amazon looks at them and, if they really are not up to scratch (and the bad reviews were not a vendetta), then they withdraw the book until the publisher can put things right. So, your reviews help us authors sell more books and help protect us readers from badly produced books. And behind this paragraph is the broad hint that if you have one of mine on your shelf – more, if you have one and I’ve signed it – see if you can head to Amazon, search for it and put up a review (if you haven’t already). Thank you!

From boats to book reviews
Under the sea

Symi Spring

Symi Spring
I don’t know very much about them, but today we’ve got some photos of Symi flowers, and Symi spring, as that’s what season we are being blown into at the moment. It’s still very windy out there, five to six on the Beaufort Scale, the sites tell me. It feels a bit stronger than that at times, but it’s coming from the south so it’s not cold. Anyway…

Symi Spring
Symi Spring
Symi Spring
Poppy!

Back to the flowers that bloom in the spring (tra-la!). Did you know that the season Spring comes from the verb, to spring? Pretty obvious really (plants leaping joyously from the earth, rabbits leaping joyously onto each other, that kind of thing). But did you know where we get the word, the verb, to spring from? There are a few explanations knocking around and it’s interesting to see from these how some words appear in different cultures, written in different alphabets, and spoken in different languages, and yet are remarkably similar. No doubt due to migration and trade routes or something. For example, Spring comes from the Old English Springan, which comes from the Photo-Germanic word Sprengan. Meanwhile, we’ve got the Old Frisian Springa, the Middle Dutch Springhen, Old Saxon and Old High German Springan, Sanskrit gets a look in with Sprhayati and let’s not forget Greece (unlike the rest of Europe) and add in Sperkhasthai.

Symi Spring
Symi Spring

Sorry to have sprungen that little word investigation on you; I find this kind of thing interesting. It’s also fun. I mean, I’d never heard of Photo-Germanic before. I first thought it had something to do with Helmut Newton or a group of Berliners taking a selfie. And as for Old Frisian, I immediately thought of a wrinkled old cow. (You can picture your own; I take no responsibility for who you consider a wrinkly old cow.) The image of an Old High German hardly bears thinking bout. No offence; the Old Saxon was pretty rough too. It’s also interesting to note how the Dutch add at least one unnecessary h to things so as to get a good hoik-up going, how those writing in Sanskrit used Latin letters (they didn’t), and how the Greeks manage to slip in a tongue-twisting three or four extra syllables, presumably to make sure everyone else runs out of things to say before they get to the end of the word.

Symi Spring
Symi Spring

But back to the flowers… Like I said, I have no idea what these are called, though I can guess at some. Poppy, is pretty obvious. But if you want to know more about the Symi flora and fauna you should head over to Lyndon’s informative and colourful blog/site which is dedicated to the subject. I’m away to batten down hatches, sweep up leaves, feed cats and do other day-to-day things, and will aim to see you tomorrow when we’ll discover if the wind ever died down.

Symi Spring
There’s a nutcase in there somewhere

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Kalo Mina!
Sunday was something of a fabulous day; sunny, hot, not too much wind, and so a walk was in order. We headed off down to Pedi via one of the paths; the one that starts behind what was the Bloom nightclub and bar. It’s all goats and sheep, their young, flowers and blossom at the moment.

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Resting feet, in the sun, by the sea

The sun was highlighting the damp still on the rocks on the hillside, in some places, as the day had started wet. Not through rain, simply through dew and humidity. The balcony was dripping with it, as was the courtyard, but once the sun gets onto these places, if it does in the winter, it soon goes.

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Sun shining on the damp rock

We passed a fisherman mending his nets in Pedi, and then walked around to find the path to Agios Nikolas, ‘St Nicks’ as it is known locally. Michaelis, who has the taverna there, has been working on the path that links St Nicks to Pedi. This path is an easy walk, now made easier and safer where he and his son and workers have flattened it. They were drilling out some rocks, putting them to the side to make an edge, making steps where necessary and levelling off the earth. This means that more people will be able to walk there now, and he has also improved the steps at the other end. This should help his business, though there is still the taxi boat option if you want to get to one of the few sandy beaches on Symi without having to walk.

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Sunday activity in Pedi

That reminds me of the book, ‘The Last Templar,’ by Raymond Khoury, which has its climax on the island of Symi. There’s a fair amount of license taken as the hero is fighting with the antagonist at the Kastro, then runs for a short distance and finds himself at the cliffs above St George (at least a two hour walk, if not longer, from the Kastro). But then, I did the same thing in ‘Jason and the Sargonauts’, where the group of SARGO holiday makers come ashore at St Vasilis and walk up to Stavros Tou Polemou via an army outpost which isn’t there. But what reminded me of ‘The Last Templar’ was his mention of ‘the sandy beach of Marouthunda.’ Visitors to the place will know that it’s a very pebbly beach, as are many on Symi.

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Part of the new-look path

Anyway, while at St Nicks there was a fair amount of sitting in the sun, and even some paddling by yours truly – it’s far too cold for me to go in the sea, and far too wet once you are in. I don’t think I went in at all last year. We sat and had our brown rice salad, threw stones, did some skimming and chatted to the only other two people who were there.

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Afternoon tea

Afterwards the walk home was made easier by the new path where the guys were still working, and we headed back up through the valley – more lambs, kids, sheep, goats, flowers and blossom. We made it back to Lefteris’ kafeneion in time to spend an hour or so in the sun with a well-deserved but, these days, very rare ouzo. Our healthy lunch was added to by the healthy mezethes Yiannis served us; tomato, cucumber and homemade feta, and then by the not so healthy (but wonderfully smelling when cooking) addition of sliced sausage fried up with onions and pepper in olive oil. From then on it was kind of downhill to Sweeny Todd, the film version for act one (with a lot of the real act one missing) followed by the live recording for act two. Angela Landsbury being more bonkers that Sweeny, played by George Hearn. Well worth adding to your musicals collection.

Walking to ‘St Nicks’, Symi
Greece or Great Britain? (Answer: Greece)

And that was Sunday, and here, today, are just some of the few hundred photos Neil and I took during the day. I’m still waiting for Neil’s contribution so stay tuned to Symi Dream for more cool images of a hot day.

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts
But first, yesterday. Sunday morning, 08.30: Waking up early to a fabulous, though damp, morning. The balcony was dripping wet, the windows were slightly misted up and yet the only cloud I could see first thing was hanging low over Nimos, obscuring the top of the hills. It must have been a humid night. Yesterday (Saturday) was hot in the sun, so much so that we even contemplated sunbathing on the roof. The evening felt colder because of it and today, Sunday, morning feels like summer. We are going to walk to St Nicholas later, so there should be some decent images over the next few days; meanwhile, today’s photos were taken on Saturday when we went to Yialos to get some shopping and have a bit of a walk.

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts
Off to town – the ‘road’ gives way to the village square

But today (Monday) is a special day, being a leap day, February 29th. It is also (being personal in my blog for a change) the fourth anniversary of the death of my uncle, so for only the third time since 2004, when he died, we are able to celebrate, if that is the word. Remember might be more appropriate. My uncle was a colourful man, something of a celebrity in his own way, once mistaken by the Duke of Edinburgh for Bob Monkhouse, friend of various (Conservative) MPs and celebrities, leader of his local Neighbourhood Watch in South London for many years, and a man who, after only a few months of work at Lloyds, was able to invest his income and live on his capital for the rest of his life. He was very good with money, the stock exchange, languages (he spoke Greek, French, English and bits of others) and ended up living in France where his funeral was held in Saintcathedral in March 2004. It was my job to carry the family flag with his coat of arms before the coffin as it processed through the nave. There are 101 stories I could tell you about him, but they would be more suited to a book of anecdotes that a quick blog post. Instead, I wondered what else had happened on this unusual date.

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts
Symi wall colours

Something of interest to me, as one of my favourite plays is Arthur Miller’s The Crucible (a film I must get on DVD – the screenplay was also by Arthur Miller), it was this day in 1692 that Sarah Good, Sarah Osborne & Tituba, a servant, were the first people to be accused of witchcraft in Salem, Massachusetts. In 1774 the Marquis de Sade was transferred into the Bastille – there’s another good film there, with Kate Winslet, and Geoffrey Rush as the Marquis, called Quills. In 1932 (and this is strangely topical), TIME magazine featured eccentric American politician William “Alfalfa” Murray on its cover after Murray stated his intention to run for President of the United States. I am thinking of Donald Trump here, who is, surely, some practical joke gone badly wrong.

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts
Calm harbour

For those who follow Gilbert and Sullivan storylines, rather Gilbert storylines and Sullivan melody lines, it was on February 29th 1940 that Frederick would have been finally released from his contract by the Pirate King – his birthday being on February 29th, one of those devices Gilbert was so keen on. Also in 1940 on this day, Gone With The Wind won eight Oscars. The first Playboy club was opened in Chicago in 1960 on this day, and, in 2004, The Lord Of The Rings (part three) won its Oscars. (So as my uncle was being returned to God, the film, ‘The Return Of The King’ was winning its awards. More appropriate, for Uncle, would have been ‘The Return Of The Queen.’)

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts
the cyclamen are out

As for who else has died on this day in history, my uncle will be in friendly hands as Pope St. Hilarius died in 468 (my uncle converted to Catholicism later in life and liked a good laugh, though I might find Pope Hilarius’ name hilarious, he probably wouldn’t), and an Archbishop of Canterbury, John Whitgift also died, in 1604 – my uncle’s father was a Church of England priest, a friend of a later Archbishop of Canterbury, and Uncle went to school at Kings Canterbury, so he and the Most Reverend Whitgift will have some catching up to do, and Hugh will have some explaining to do too about his conversion.

Leap Day, some personal and interesting facts
Symi harbour

And that’s enough of that. I’ll hand you back to Symi tomorrow, hopefully with a tale of our walk to St Nicholas and with some more of Neil’s wonderful Symi photos. Enjoy your extra day this year and remember, no day is to be wasted, especially when you have/had a 1-in-1461 chance of being born today.

Writing on a Greek island

Symi Dream
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