Morning Sights of Symi

Morning Sights of Symi

Yesterday we had sounds, today we’re having sights – or not, as it happens. These are only what I see, of course, but here’s a rough guide to what I tend to see first thing in the morning.

Morning Sights of Symi
A quick morning check of the plants

I won’t take you through the details of absolutely first thing, but let’s assume I’m up, dressed and abluted and so on. Yesterday, for example, I dragged myself from bed knowing that I’d promised myself a bit of exercise so, having dressed in the kitchen so as not to disturb Snoring Beauty, I headed out just before the dawn. There’s a strange thing at our house; every time I leave the front gate, someone is passing on a motorbike, or on foot. Yesterday, though, was an exception and not even our landlord opposite was up and about.

Morning Sights of Symi

The square was empty, as you might expect at 6.00 am, but as mentioned previously, Lefteris was at work preparing his kafeneion. The light was on, and he was inside. There was no-one else around, it’s not yet summer when I often pass people heading home from a night out, but there was no-one on the road either. No cars or soldiers passed me as I walked up the hill. The sky was pinking over Pedi way as I passed the sports centre, which also had some lights burning, and the only other person I saw was Tassos the donkey man’s mother and that wasn’t until I was in Leoni and beyond Lavinia, on the stretch towards Periotisa and Ag Triatha. I wondered if she was walking up to her son’s farm/area/compound on the main road towards Roukouniotis, but I didn’t ask. She was walking slower than me, and I didn’t want to break my tempo. We had a brief, passing chat about what I was up to, and she did volunteer that she was out for a walk as well.

Morning Sights of Symi

Reaching the top of the village, the sun was just starting to peek above the Turkish mountains, throwing soft light onto the upper village and the Castro. I heard goats but didn’t see any (the sound of cockerels in the Pedi valley was manic), and again, passed no-one else. It was like everyone was still in bed, which is unusual. As there’s usually someone on the road at that time of day. Still, down again, past the museum and across to come out at Ag Athanasios, and then across the village to our side of the hill and… Still no-one around.

Morning Sights of Symi

You must think the walk is very boring at that time old day, but you still get to see the wildlife waking up. Sparrows chatting about their dreams, a cat or two having a morning wash of all those intimate places, looking like they are playing the double bass, and I was surprised by two chickens and a cockerel halfway up the road. Other than that, Monday morning was very quiet. Later, sitting at the desk, I saw the ‘Spanos’ coming it as it does promptly at 9.20, and later the patrol tanker boat dropped anchor and rumbled into port. The sun, fully up, lit the harbour and the calm sea, and a few swallows came past to see what the sea air was driving up the hill, mosquitoes and bugs mainly.

Hm, not actually a lot going on, but then that’s what you want at six in the morning, isn’t it? I’m sure there will be other mornings when something happens, and this page becomes a little more interesting.

Symi Mornings

Symi Mornings

On waking up, the first sound I usually hear will be one of the following: Cockerels, bells, collard doves, sparrows, or a barking dog. It’s usually something rural, occasionally a complaining cat near the window, on Sundays if I am late waking up, people passing on their way to church, and very occasionally the alarm clock. It’s one of those that is supposed to play a different tune each day from a playlist on a memory card, but it’s stuck on the same song and won’t budge no matter how I treat it, but most days, I am awake before it kicks in.

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos

The routine from then on rarely changes: Kettle, bathroom, cup of tea/coffee/lemon in hot water, depending on mood. Some days (and not enough – must try harder) the tea waits until I’m back from a stroll through the village. On these mornings, the routine is always pretty similar. Across the square, wave to Lefteris at the kafeneion – I’ve been out at 5.15 before and he’s already there setting up. In the summer, a quick nod to folks leaving the Jean & Tonic bar, startled by the realisation that it’s daylight and they only popped in for one at eleven last night. I remember those days… somehow. On through the lanes, maybe up the road waving to Sotiris on his way to or from the farm, and at others, strange looks from the army guys heading to work, the occasional toot of a car horn, and later, if I’m on time, a sunrise.

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos
Sunrise from Taverna Zoi

Back to the house, tea etc. done and to the desk. I also slip into the routine, turning on the computers and then coming back to them to open the programmes I will need so when I’m ready, it’s ready, and away we go. The sounds from then on, apart from the tapping of keys and the swearing at my appalling typing skills, are mainly to do with the harbour, as that’s the way the window faces. Anchors, boats coming and going, sometimes the motorbikes on the road straining their way up the hill, more bells, the ping-pongs from the town hall announcement system and the distorted words thereafter, repeated as echoes from other speakers at Lemonitisa, Harani, even from Pedi if the wind is in the right direction. And so on into the day.

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos
Early morning boat

I mention this because a thought came back to me this morning. We’ve heard people here on holiday (usually for the first time) complaining about being woken by chickens, or donkeys, or cockerels and my answer is, don’t let them in your apartment. What they mean is, the sounds wake them. When I lived in East London, I’d be woken by fire engines, police cars, the rumble of buses and the rumble of rumbles between warring factions at the local community centre after a late night. I’d rather have the sound of wildlife and rural living, but it can take a while to get used to. So, if you’re heading this way for a holiday, expect to be a little bit rural and enjoy the sounds of island life – expect and accept, I guess is the advice.

Symi Saturday Photos

Symi Saturday Photos

Some shots today from a trip to Yialos on Thursday. New flags, sailing puppy, roadworks, more flags, fresh fish, shops ready and waiting, café time, more flags… Harbour life continues. Have a good weekend.

Symi Saturday Photos
View from Mediteraneo
Symi Saturday Photos
New catch just in
Symi Saturday Photos
Ready for summer

Symi Saturday Photos Symi Saturday Photos

Symi Saturday Photos
The War Memorial
Symi Saturday Photos
Repairing the road
Symi Saturday Photos
First officer
Symi Saturday Photos
New flags around the harbour

 

Climb Every Mountain

Climb Every Mountain

Continuing the spring theme, I found some photos from last April, and some from the other day, so I thought I’d show you what Symi looks like in the spring. Or at least, the parts of Symi that I get to see.

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos

If all this greenery is going on around the village and Pedi, imagine what it’s like out on the hills and far away, over towards Marathounda and then to the west beyond Xissos. Wild herbs, trees, birds, wildlife, it’s all out there, you just need to go and find it. Which is what makes Symi so good for walkers, especially at this time of year. You can ramble safely, following the old red or blue dots from the Kalodoukas walking book, or you can buy one of the newer maps of the island which now have contour lines and details. (See below.) You can just follow the road if you want, and take one of the minor roads off it.

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos

Head up through the village, for example, following the main road, so you don’t get lost, and you’ll eventually summit behind the Vigla. You can summit the Vigla itself if you want and my Skai map of Symi tells me it’s 617 metres above sea level. That’s just over half the height of Snowdon if you’re interested (1,085 m). Not as high as Greece’s highest mountain, Mount Olympus which summits at 9,218 meters, I am told, but still, the Vigla is our tallest hill, and we’re rather proud of it.

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos

Carry on the main road and you will see a turn to the left (after the monastery of Ag Konstantinos but before the recycle tip) and that will take you towards St George and the hinterland. Or, keep going and you’ll pass through the pine forest and eventually reach Panormitis. I’ll leave you with a few tips: The walk from Village to the top of the zigzags to Panormitis took me two hours. The shortcuts didn’t make it any shorter or easier. It’s another two hours down the zigzag to Panormitis itself. Make sure you have a lift back organised. Always take water, a hat and a mobile, in case…

Symi Greece Symi Dream photos

Here’s a link to the map I use. I think it’s one of the best around at the moment.

A Bit of Bothersome Blather

A Bit of Bothersome Blather

(And some photos today taken recently.)
Wednesday brought with it a strange dream. For some reason, I woke just before six and, blundering about the house, saw the Blue Star leaving Yialos. Perhaps I’d been woken by its arrival. Not quite ready for the day ahead, I thought I’d sit for a minute… And woke up an hour later after a dream in which all the children of the island were being taken away on a ship. Very odd, but no doubt inspired by the Blue Star I’d seen in my half-awake state. Anyway, I got on with Wednesday which started cooler and with that cloud cover again, but with the thermometer in the garden reading 20 degrees by ten.

Waiting for the Dodecanisos
Waiting for the Dodecanisos

I’ve also been watching the day boats coming in and out, and each time they arrive, they seem to be bringing more visitors with them. That can only be a good thing. It feels like we’re in that lull between Easter and the start of the season, and I suppose we are, seeing as how Easter was several days ago now. We have already had visitors coming, staying for a holiday and leaving, but have not yet seen the numbers that we expect to see in the summer, and that’s probably because it’s not quite summer season yet. I’m just blathering on here.

The now nearly daily 9.20 arrival
The now nearly daily 9.20 arrival

Now there’s a thing. Where does the word Blather come from? I know it as a Scottish word, or rather, being more used in Scotland. I just went and had a look and, no surprise, it is. It comes from the Old Norse word, blathra, meaning ‘talk nonsense’ which is based on the Old Norse word blathr, meaning ‘nonsense.’ So, how about getting yourself a copy of ‘Symi, Stuff & Blathr’? (That link leads to the real book, Symi, Stuff & Nonsense.) The word came from Old Norse to Scottish and Northern English via the Vikings, I imagine. As a bonus, you also have this from an etymology site:

Testing out my summer seating
Testing out my summer seating

1520s, blether, Scottish, probably from a Scandinavian source such as Old Norse blaðra “mutter, wag the tongue,” perhaps of imitative origin, or from Proto-Germanic *blodram “something inflated” (the source of bladder). Related: Blathered; blathering. https://www.etymonline.com/word/blather

On which note, I need to go before I bother you with my bothersome blather.

Sea Dreams slipping in
Sea Dreams slipping in

Writing on a Greek island