Busy Day in Yialos

We were out and about in Yialos again yesterday, popping down in the later morning for a beer and then lunch. There were quite a few visitors, which is good to see late in September. Various day-trip boats were moored on the south side of the harbour to leave room for the cruise ship which came in, the tour operators’ buses were going back and forth ferrying passengers across to Panormitis (I am guessing), the taxis were doing the same. Meanwhile, the groups led by guides were pouring off the day boats and following umbrellas around, into the backstreets, from sponge shop to taverns, and other independent visitors and those who had broken from the herd milled around oohing and ahhing at the sights.

It’s good fun just to sit and people watch some days, you see all kinds of sights. Those who think they’ve come for a day at the beach in their bikinis and ‘smuggly budgers’ as Neil calls them, others who have dressed to attend the opera, more average folk who know how to dress for a day’s touring, and visitors of all nationalities and ages. We, rather Neil, had a brief chat with a young couple after lunch who were keen to see more than just the harbour front, and there were several ‘dayers’ up in the village when we arrived there later, something else that’s always good to see.

Among the visitors were many refugees, of course. Now that Turkey has again opened its gates or closed its eyes, we are seeing our fair share of people fleeing chemical warfare and other atrocities. Again, a mix of people, but mainly those who have found the means to pay for the hazardous crossing and who have walked the 1,400 miles from Syria (that’s a general route from an internet map from Syria generally to Marmaris by the main road, so not accurate, but you know what I mean). Most of these people are intelligent, young professionals, some are also that with families, and among them are older people and many children. The Mediterraneo café is doing a great job hosting them with no fuss, allowing them to charge vital communication devices and so on, and many other businesses are also helping out. Two port police officers left Georgio’s taverna after lunch carrying a massive pot of stew (or similar) prepared there, and I know other places are donating and doing the same. You can drop off cash with Yianni Taxas, enter the donation in the book and it will be used for basic food supplies. Also, look up ‘Next Stop Symi’ online where you can donate across the internet.

Oh, and as another piece of local info, Petalo is now closing for the season, at least in part. The chef told us that yesterday was his last day. Oh, and then there was the goat that followed someone all the way back from Roukouniotis to Horio and had to be persuaded to go with its carer to Sotiris at the supermarket because he’s the man when it comes to goats. As it turned out, she was called Sophia (the goat) and belonged to him anyway, so they were reunited. A happy ending.

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Symi’s Secret Museum

Actually, it’s not a secret, but it’s no much known about or publicised as far as I can see, and on Tuesday, I finally went inside and had a look around. I’m talking about the Kyrillos Collection, a private museum/collection belonging to Ioannis Megaloudis with the title ‘The Folklore, Historical and Commercial Archive of Symi.’ The sign outside reads, ‘Collection of Greek Folk Musical Instruments’, but there is much more on show.

The ground floor level contains cabinets displaying musical instruments, pipes (floyera), Tsabouna (goat-skin bagpipe), violins, guitars, lyres, bouzouki and others, plus music books from the churches, some very old, and other musical items, all of which hail from Symi. It’s a large space, and Ioannis is on hand to tell you about them and show you the celestes and sandouri.

Sorry about the rough photos by the way. Downstairs is another treasure trove with items from Symi commerce over the years. Here, we were shown pottery and glass, bread-making items, sewing machines, church items, copper cooking pots… There’s a whole section dedicated to coffee with grinders and brikies, a selection from WWII, shells and the like, printing presses and bocks, shoemakers equipment, goldsmith’s tools… You name it, there is something from each of Symi’s historical trades. There are even ledgers showing the import/export of flour from as far away as Australia.

The collection is, to use an over-used word, amazing. Awe-inspiring actually, considering it is a private collection, beautifully and expertly housed behind glass, or on shelves and dusted and well preserved. As far as I know, there is no funding for it, and Ioannis houses it in his own property and curates it between 10.30 and 15.30 every day. There is a small brochure and other information available and no charge to enter.

That no charge thing didn’t feel right to mother and I, so when we left, I tried to press a note into the curator’s hand, but at first, he wouldn’t have it, saying there was no need. I told him it was for the electricity, and he accepted it then, but a moment later, gave me a CD of traditional Symi music played by his son and his band as a present.

To find this hidden gem, you need to find the junior school at the back of Yialos, not difficult, it’s behind the main square on the left, by the basketball court. Or, you can walk through St John’s courtyard and up the steps at the back, and there, in the tree-covered lane on your right, you will see artefacts on the wall. The door is right there. Go in, take a look and you’ll be as amazed as we were not only with the history on display but by the fact that it’s privately organised, collected, run and funded.

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Wind and Water

Our last day in Athens was a long one. Well, no longer than any other day, of course, and half of it didn’t take place in Athens, but you know what I mean. I had booked a taxi to take us to Piraeus at 13:00, again via Welcome Pickups. Before then, however, there was time for breakfast, and another wander around, where this time we headed to the Roman Forum and the Tower of the Winds. Here’s another tip for you: go early to these places if you can. We more or less had the place to ourselves, including the exhibition of WWII photographs currently being shown in the old mosque on the site. As usual for Greek archaeological sites, there is plenty of information on boards in Greek and English, and entry wasn’t expensive. €6.00 each including the exhibition, the tower and the ruins of the old forum which is just below the Acropolis. Here are a few photos:

Back at the hotel, bags packed and bill paid, the taxi arrived ten minutes ahead of schedule. With this company, you receive an email to your phone when the car has arrived, but in this case, I could see it. You are also given a photo of your driver and her/his name, and vice versa, so there’s no confusion. Glykeria greeted us, put the bags in the boot and we set off. The drivers speak English so we had a good old chat on the way to the port and were delivered at my request to the ticket office so I could collect our tickets. We said our goodbyes, and off she went, only to return immediately and put Mother back in the car to wait, telling me off because it was too hot to be standing about in the sun. She then took us the 20 yards across to the boat where we checked in and decided to have lunch in the a la carte restaurant. I’m not usually a fan of food photos as they tend to come out looking like a science experiment, and my lamb roll does look rather dodgy here, but I wanted to share part of the menu with you.

And here’s another tip. Get yourself a Sea Smiles card from Blue Star Ferries. You need to have a ticket first, so a short trip from Symi to Rhodes will do it. Then you head to the Sea Smiles website and set up an account for free, using the ticket number as proof that you’re serious. That done, you print your own card and from then on, benefit from reward points and discounts. Our lunch of two courses, a bottle of wine, water and so on, came to less than €60.00 because of my card, and I also earned points.

The rest of the day was spent watching the islands go by until an early night was attempted. I had booked us a cabin each and paid a little extra to have what was usually a shared cabin as a solo one. If you book shared, you can find yourself sharing with a stranger which, although often the plot twist of romantic novels and thrillers, is not always a pleasant experience, and the cabins are not huge, so tend to be over-intimate. On this route, Piraeus to Symi, the boat docks at the islands from around 23:00 (Patmos, on a Tuesday) until arriving at Symi at 05.00 on Wednesday, so I was up most of the night watching the action.

Finally, we arrived back at Symi where we were met by the Village Hotel where mother is currently staying, and that’s another tip: make sure you have arranged transport. I have walked up to home with my rucksack and laptop bag, when I came back from Tills earlier in the year, but if you can pre-book someone with a car, it’s a much better experience.

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Athens Day three

My third day in Athens was warmer and less windy than the ones before, and the storm we had sailed through the previous Friday had completely gone leaving blue skies and warm temperatures. As this was a Monday, the museums were closed, something I should have thought about when I planned the trip. Instead, we wandered, and it turned out to be another six-mile day.

It started with a walk through the National Gardens, a large area of trees and plants, lakes and a café behind/next to the parliament building. We saw plenty of noisy parakeets, a few magpies and other birds including ducks and geese on one of the ponds. It’s easy to forget you are in the middle of a city, and it was a shaded walk.

We came out by the president’s residence (hence the guards) and on to the Stadium, the site of the first modern Olympics. The next day there was to be a presentation by the Greek Youth Olympic Gymnast team, or similar, and the team was warming up before a rehearsal. Speakers played music, we sat in the royal box – two marble thrones halfway down – and watched the warm-up, which was very impressive. There is no shade there though, and you should bring your own cushions if you are planning to stay a long time, so after a while we wandered back around the main road towards Plaka, again.

There, we stopped for a coffee at the Melina Mercouri café, a pleasant little place with a large menu. I can recommend the frappe with Kahlua, wink, wink. After that, we took a stroll above the Roman Forum, had lunch in one of the squares nearby, and later, ended up at The Arts Foundation for coffee.

The Arts Foundation in Monastiraki is worth a visit and not only for any exhibition that might be sowing. It is an exhibition space and café housed in what was once a prison. Some of the cells/rooms are used for meeting spaces, shops and small displays, it has another space upstairs and a shaded courtyard that’s popular with the younger, student set. It also plays good music and the prices are very reasonable. It’s not easy to find, being in one of the many side streets in the area, but you can search for it and use your Map-Ap on your phone to lead you there.

Our six-mile day ended with another festive occasion with Irene and her band (we went back because we had laughed so much the night before, and the food was good), and tempting though it was to get up and make a fool of myself dancing to Zorba, I stayed in my chair and went unnoticed.

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Athens Day 2 – The Acropolis Museum

I could fill a whole page or two with photos from the Acropolis museum and our second day in Athens, but I will try and limit myself. The day, a Sunday, started with a short walk up to the parliament building at Syntagma to watch the Evzones, the presidential guards. “The Evzones or Evzonoi, is the name of several historical elite light infantry and mountain units of the Greek Army. Today, it refers to the members of the Presidential Guard, a ceremonial unit that guards the Greek Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Mansion in Athens.” [Wikipedia] We were there to see them in their hourly duties, but at 11.00 on a Sunday, they also perform the changing of the guard in a more intricate ceremony.

By that time, however, we had taken the metro up to the Acropolis museum. The metro, as I’ve said before, is clean, punctual and not expensive. The display pictured below, for example, was at the museum station. There are uncovered ancient ruins in the concourse at Monastiraki station.

The museum itself (€10.00 entry) is large, well designed and full of history of the Acropolis and Parthenon including a life-size freeze from around the top of that building, discovered artefacts, models showing the development of the area, pottery and even uncovered archaeology still beneath the site. There is a café for a pit stop and a video display where you can sit and rest for ten minutes and watch the history of the place. You’re able to see the Acropolis from the windows. It was still windy outside, so we didn’t venture up to the summit itself, but if you’re planning to do that, or visit the museum, my advice is to go early. We walked straight in, but by the time we left, there was a huge queue.

After that, we took a walk through Plaka, had lunch and headed back to the hotel for a siesta. Later in the afternoon, we wandered down through Monastiraki and onwards to Thiseio (or Thissio), a neighbourhood bordering the ancient agora at the foot of the Acropolis, and one of my favourite areas in the city. As it was (still) Sunday, the ‘boot fair’ style street market was there, although there are craft and other stalls lining the main pedestrian street every day, and so we spent some time wandering the stalls and checking out everything from antiques to tat and from homemade jewellery to homemade leather-bound notebooks (I resisted as I already have four).

The walk continued until, before we knew it, we were back at the museum and halfway through a circular route which took us back through the Plaka towards Monastiraki and dinner. We walked six miles that day and ended up at a taverna that was very pleasant, not costly and looked awfully smart. It was all going well until the hostess, Irini, began her nightly routine of teaching everyone ‘kaliiiispeeeera’ and so on, and insisted those punters who wanted to, got up to dance Zorba, including the smashing of ‘plaaaayts’ as two very talented musicians played and sang. It was good fun, though we stayed rooted in our chairs.

You can have a bit of everything in Athens all in one day.

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