Here’s a quick summary of how to get to the village from Yialos, for anyone who is heading this way this year and isn’t too sure how to do it. There are various ways including the taxis and the bus, the main road walk and a variety of paths and steps that join the Kali Strata, the main steps leading up to the village square. There are around 400 of them, so be prepared.
Start by the souvkali shop in the south-west corner of the harbour – towards Harani Bar (on the right), Vapori Bar and the fruit stallRight at the jewellery shopAt the start, past the Kalodoukas officesLeft at the pet shop/vet’sJust follow the widest stepsSteps then flat, makes it easierRemember to look behind and to the side for the best viewsnot far nowTowards the last pushStop on the corner for the famous ‘Kali Strata Bar’ view. (The bar is gone, but there’s a bench.)Down with your head, up with your heart and you’re skimming over the top in a jiffy. (A quote from ‘Blythe Spirit’)Near the topFinally, a rest at one of the village square cafes
If you want to buy the book with the same title as this post, then check out Carry On Up The Kali Strata (my series of living on Symi, book two). Here’s the dot-com link, but you can find it in all Amazon stores so order it from the one most appropriate to you.
A day for a mix of photos and not a lot to say. Except… Easter is approaching, and I’ve had a couple of messages recently asking me what there is to do on Symi at Easter. Perhaps it’s because Easter weekend is fairly late this year (April 28th is Easter Sunday) that more people are thinking of taking a holiday here at that time, hence the questions. Usually, at Easter time, several cafes and restaurants that have been closed for the winter are reopened, so there should be no shortage of places to eat out. On which note, I’ve heard that what was Manos’ Aris restaurant is now to be opened (as something else, I assume) by Stavros, Pantelis is taking over the roof garden and… Well, it’s all gossip really, as I’ve not heard anything from the parties involved, but the point is, there are places open to dine.
A typical spring day
The beach tavernas probably won’t be open, it might depend on the weather which, in April can be changeable. Check your boat connections with Dodekanisos Seaways and the Blue Star Line, and maybe nearer the time, ANES if they are running a service again this year. You will find or have found by now, hotels and apartments ready for occupation so accommodation shouldn’t be an issue – as long as you book ahead.
The weather can change quickly
When you’re here, you will find that Great Week, the week leading up to Easter, brings a strict fast of Orthodox believers, though it doesn’t necessarily limit what the tavernas sell, and that there are church services just about every day. There are many church events, such as the Good Friday, dark and sad morning service, the parading of the biers, and the evening service where congregations move from church to church. There is the midnight service on Easter Saturday where the lights are turned out, and the flame is passed from one person to the next and, traditionally, folks write X A (for Xristos Anesti, Christ has risen) beneath the lintel of their gate or front door. This service is usually accompanied by fireworks and dynamite, so expect lots of noise. In fact, kids and adults alike are prone to setting off loud bangers at all and any time of the day and in any place. Expect sudden, loud noises.
Not all churches hold all celebrations. Ask around.
Also expect sheep wandering the village lanes, let off the hillsides to be closer to homes and eat the weeds, fattening them up for the ‘silence of the lambs’ which happens on Saturday. At least, that’s when I’ve noticed it. After a few weeks of localised bleating and random sheep noises, you’re suddenly aware of the silence, broken now and then by a distant gunshot as another one bites the dust. I’ve seen neighbours gutting the carcases in their courtyards ahead of preparing the Saturday night fast-breaking ‘entrail’ soup, which I’ve never tried.
Spring
On Sunday, there is a family day atmosphere as there is on the Monday, and on the Sunday, there’s the traditional ‘burning of Judas’ (effigy) in the town square, with wine, music and more bangers. Monday is a bank holiday, so make sure you’ve got your shopping in – shops tend to be open on the Saturday at Easter, but probably not the Friday when, according to tradition, you’re not meant to use any tools or eat with cutlery.
Pedi valley in spring
Everyone is welcome at the church events no matter your denomination, lots of people throw fireworks about and there’s no point complaining about it or worrying, as it happens here, and that’s that. Around all this, the bars and cafés will be open (or at least some), ditto tavernas and shops. Taxi boats? No. Taxis? Yes but best to book. The tour buses to Panormitis? Yes, and the main town bus yes but not a Summer service, and I don’t expect any of the transport services will be operating on Easter Friday night, Sunday and possibly Monday. You have the walks, the spring on Symi is perfect for birdwatching, and the Pedi valley and other parts of the island offer butterflies and wildlife walks and views. Oh, and although the Noddy train is once again parked by the clock tower, I’m not sure if it will be running by Easter. So, not much to say today apart from: There’s a lot going on for Easter on Symi, you’re welcome to be a part of it, or watch/listen from a distance, but you have to be aware of a few things: Some shops/transport etc., close on certain days, the weather might disrupt your boat crossings, it might be cold at night, the weather changes and there’s lots of dynamite and bangers which would make an H&S officer pass out. If you’re happy with all of that, come on over.
Actually, I don’t have to recover as much as I thought I would following a birthday day of basically hanging out with friends. I took a few snaps along the way. A visit to the post office (thank you for the DVDs, mother! Looking forward to them), a quick shop for birthday essentials (bangers and mash supplies), a beer at Pacho’s watching the parade flags being taken down and the army passing by, a taxi home, stopping briefly along the way, the bangers and mash, a granddad doze and back to Rainbow for the afternoon/evening which included blue cheese and Branston pickle.
Birthday morning view
Thank you to everyone who sent messages and cards. Collette, for the Brexit T-shirt, and Neil for the Brexit activity puzzle book perfect for the bathroom or other idle moments, the bottles from Miss DJ and Anne, the curtain pole from Jenine and the card from the boys (I am now officially Sam’s best granddad, apparently – I think his mind was elsewhere when he wrote it, lol), and all the good wishes. Obviously, I need to change something as gifts were strangely Brexit and wine flavoured, but now the day has passed, I can get back to the walks and less wine, and I may even be able to see my cheekbones again by the summer – if I am very good, which I rarely am.
Taking down the flagsArmy passing by
Back in Symi mode now and the week ahead which is already filling up with invitations and get-togethers. We’re expecting some bad weather today and tomorrow, and we’ve not had news on our health MOTs yet, but I don’t think it will be this week. It might have to be after Neil has started work which will mean he’ll get a day off, the only one of the season, I expect. But that’s all for the future. For now, I’m going to carry on chilling.
I suppose as I am writing this yesterday and it’s my birthday (56), it might be an opportune time to think back on where I was on other birthdays in the past. There are quite a few to remember, and I don’t have many photos taken on the actual days, but here are a few reminiscences…
In Romania for my 50th, heading into the Carpathian Mountains
Regarding Symi, I guess one of the most memorable was my 50th, and I wasn’t even here. We were in Transylvania for a holiday, and on the day itself, I woke up in the presidential suite of a hotel in Sighisoara. The hotel had messed up on our booking for our first night of three – the hotel was booked out by a party of Greek pilgrims visiting the local churches – so they put us in the suite at no extra cost for all three nights. I’m still sure that this was somehow pre-arranged by Neil, Jenine and Ian, but apparently not. It was snowing, and in the morning, we had coffee I the house where Vlad Tepes was allegedly born. A bit of a Dracula tie-in there. Back on Symi, we had had one 50th party at the Sunrise, a 50th dinner with Jenine and the boys and, after our return, another dinner to celebrate, so that birthday went on for at least four weeks.
Presidential suite (first floor, there was another bedroom above)Birthday view from the window
Back in 2003, for my 40th and not long after we had moved here and fit from a seasons’ non-stop work for Takis at the Leather shop (600+ steps down and up every day of the week for seven months, plus the walking and lifting at work), we walked to Panormitis with Lisa. It was a sunny, spring day and the walk took us around four hours going via the wine press shortcut. Getting home was unplanned but we hitched a lift with a gang of celebrating builders who had invited us into their cell where they stayed during the week while working down there, for wine before setting off. Nearly didn’t see age 50 + one day, but we made it home, shaken and somewhat stirred. Sadly, I don’t have any photos of that time.
Vlad’s birth house for coffeeBran Castle. IOt’s known as ‘Dracula’s Castle’ though it has nothing to do with the story, and Vlad Tepes was only, possibly, imprisoned here, maybe, for a short time, if at all, perhaps.
As for my 30th, well… That’s probably best not going into, but it involved being stood up by my then partner who chose that day to call it all off, going to a pub with my cabaret partner, Keith, and then a club in East London followed by a long walk home to Dalston at three in the morning. The rest is something of a blur.
Split, Croatia for birthday 55, and a cake from the hotel
Last year we were in Croatia for our honeymoon and my BD. On the day, the hotel presented me with a cake big enough for 20 people and a free packed lunch for our visit to the national park. They had seen my passport and realised it was my birthday, hence the cake. Like the hotel in Romania, the staff went out of their way to make my stay and birthday a memorable one. Hoteliers could learn a lot from the young people that ran these paces and how they deal with customer care and going ‘the extra mile’ in other parts of Europe.
Waterfalls at the Krka national Park, Croatia, this time last year
I have also spent other birthdays there on Symi, notably one where there was an impromptu party at Rainbow that involved gin and tonic, and several that I have spent with Jenine and the godboys, our island family. As for yesterday, well, it’s still only 8.30 as I write. I’ve been up since four, done three hours of work, and we’re planning to go to Yialos, maybe have lunch or a drink there before meeting friends for a few drinks this evening. We’re taking the boys to dinner on Friday as they have after-school school on a Tuesday, so this birthday, like others, will run for more than just the one day.
Thank you for all the messages and thank you for supporting the blog and my books, all of which can be found here – with the same page being available to Amazon users in various countries. This is the .com page but should lead you to your local Amazon store if you have a birthday present to buy for someone and need some ideas.
Meanwhile… Hatches were battened down on Sunday afternoon and evening when the wind got up, bringing colder air with it. It was still pleasant in the sun but after dark, not so much. Monday dawned bright and a breezy, with the Independence Day parade taking place in Yialos. See the Symi Dream, Facebook page, and I will share photos there if I can. Today, there are some images from a walk along the hillside. As you can see, the spring flowers are coming out, and the hills are green with the oregano, thyme and other wild herbs that grow there. As long as they are not on someone’s land, you can pick these and believe me, they are far stronger than anything you will buy in a shop.
As for the rest of my week… It’s a birthday drink at the bar later today, dinner with the godboys on Friday and there is a memorial service for Wendy at the chapel in Pedi on Sunday morning at 11.00, where everyone is welcome to attend. Unless we get a call from our health insurance agent, we are not planning to go anywhere (apart from those mentioned events), but she may ring and call us to Rhodes on Friday. Apparently, Euromedica where we have our annual MOTs done is changing hands at the end of this month and we can’t get in before then. I assume they are rearranging their insurances or staff or something, but hopefully, we’ll get our checks done before the season is too advanced. If they leave it too much longer, Neil will have to take a day off work to go, and we were hoping to spend a night or two in Rhodes rather than just one day. Anyway, a couple more photos and I’m off.
